I don't think I'm doing mirror lock-up right. I wanted to use it because I read it can help with sharpness via reducing camera movement. I followed the directions and then depressed the shutter and the mirror sure enough locked up and the viewfinder went black, for 30 secs just like I read. Did I take the pic? Did it take when I pressed the shutter? What's happening during those 30 secs. and why so long locked up? Should I take the picture after the mirror goes back down? The book (Canon 10D) was not very clear on this. Can I take a pic during those dark 30 secs? I tried to, and may have, but I didn't hear anything so I don't think I did. (I'm downloading them now).
I don't think I'm doing mirror lock-up right. I wanted to use it because I read it can help with sharpness via reducing camera movement. I followed the directions and then depressed the shutter and the mirror sure enough locked up and the viewfinder went black, for 30 secs just like I read. Did I take the pic? Did it take when I pressed the shutter? What's happening during those 30 secs. and why so long locked up? Should I take the picture after the mirror goes back down? The book (Canon 10D) was not very clear on this. Can I take a pic during those dark 30 secs? I tried to, and may have, but I didn't hear anything so I don't think I did. (I'm downloading them now).
Thanks!
The problem with mirror lock up is that as soon as the mirror is up light does not hit the mirror anymore, but the very thin and fragile metal shutter of your 10D. After some time the shutter can be damaged or leak light that is why the mirror comes down after 30 seconds. Also, you need to keep the sensor in ready position for 30 seconds. Nikon actually build a second shutter in the F4 and F5 cameras in order to allow long time locked up mirror, these camera also have a button that works both ways, move the mirror up AND let it down. Canon only has the up button when pressing the shutter release. First press in mirror lock up mode will lift the mirror, pressing again before the mirror comes down will release the shutter. I think there is no way to have the mirror come down without taking an image or waiting 30 seconds. You should wait a couple seconds between you lock up the mirror and releasing the shutter, to make sure that you really reduce vibrations. Also, we can assume that mirror lock up draines your battery a lot more than regular shutter release.
After the mirror is up, you only hear the shutter opening and closing. No clonck click, only a silent click after you clonck up the mirror. The camera will show the busy light after taking a real shot and the mirror will come down just after the image was taken.
I use mirror lockup on my 10D all the time. It is especially critical for exposures in the 1/30 to 1/4 of a second range as this is when shake from the reflex mirror will most likely affect the exposure. Remember that the 10D has a much, much smaller reflex mirror and is far less prone to mirror induced shake. Nevertheless, mirror lockup is important. For mirror lockup shots (and all tripod shots), I highly recommend getting the RS-80N3 electronic release. You can use the self timer like Mr. J, but it is much easier to use this electronic release. As previously mentioned, depress the shutter once, wait several seconds than depress it fully a second time.
By the way, it is possible to cancel mirror lockup before taking the shot. For example, if you are handholding a shot and forget to disable mirror lockup, you do not have to wait 30 seconds for it to reset itself. To cancel mirror lockup, simply click the mode dial to a different mode, then return to your previous mode. In other words, if you are shooting in AV and you want to cancel mirror lockup, simply change to TV, P, M, or DEP for a second. This resets the reflex mirror.
Thanks everyone. Very helpful. Mirror lock-up sounds like a great tool. Any other non-PS sharpening hints would be helpful. I don't have anything against PS it's just that I'd like to get it right the first time.
You can get it as right as humanly possible and still need to sharpen the image with an image editor because of the anti-aliasing filter in front of the sensor.
No amount of MLU, tripod use or any other form of image stabilization is going to change that, Skipper.
Treat image sharpening as your friend and not as something to avoid.
There is no "need" to use manual exposure when using MLU on the 10D. I frequently use MLU when using my 300, so to reduce the mirror vibration. When you compose the shot, and partially press the shutter, the exposure is locked. Press the button further to bring up the mirror, wait a few seconds and press it again for the shot. I've never seen any exposure problems.
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