Tokina 12/24 lens?

[oldfitter]

I'm going to London soon, and will buying a Tokina 12/24 before I go. There are two out there. The newer one has better coating, but is about $100 bucks more. My question? Is it worth the extra money, for the improved coating. The lens will be going on a D300. I'm also thinking of using a 77mm/86mm step up ring for fiters. Won't have to buy any new filters that way.

[coppertop]

I'm going to assume that the 12-24mm that I owned was the first version (about four years ago) and really enjoyed it. I'd still have it if it were compatible with the 1D cameras. My thought is to save the cash and not worry about the coatings.

Also, with regards to filters, never used them but have to wonder with digital what's out there that you can't replicate with Photoshop?

[freddieg]

.Also, with regards to filters, never used them but have to wonder with digital what's out there that you can't replicate with Photoshop?

Circular Polarizers and ND Grads come to mind.

[Nearly]

Many people buy ultra-wide and then are disappointed (not as many who buy micr/macro) because it is not the usual evey-day lens. Used as intended they are awesome. So, before you splurge, no matter which lens check this out -- may be helpful for when you use the lens.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/how-...ide-lenses.htm

have a great trip --- maybe also take along a 18 - 200 or 2XX -- great for all around shooting

some split, cross, grading, and multi image filters, to name a few, are neat but used rarely.

[Landscaper]

Circular Polarizers and ND Grads come to mind.

Actually, there is a method for creating the effect of the ND grad in PS. I've been told there are also plug-ins that do a respectable job of duplicating a polarizer as well.

[freddieg]

Actually, there is a method for creating the effect of the ND grad in PS. I've been told there are also plug-ins that do a respectable job of duplicating a polarizer as well.

Even if you could create the EFFECT of a ND grad in PS, is it really going to allow you to capture the additional image detail that one can achieve by lowering the contrast during actual image capture? Or does it just simulate the appearance by artificially making the contrast seem lower? I think the whole point of using the ND grads is to allow retention of as much highlight and shadow detail as possible, but if during image capture, the contrast range is too great for the sensor, how can you avoid losing detail at one of those ends of the spectrum?

[Landscaper]

Freddie, in fact, digital sensors are capable of recording a very wide range of light zones if you're willing to use post processing to bring them out. Of course, this assumes you use proper exposure technique when making the image.

I'll concede a grad can be a better tool in those situations where the range of zones is extreme, but those are also uncommon. Most people are using grads for a 1 or 2 stop variance, something easily compensated for in PP.

I prefer to avoid the grads because I find many scenes have very irregular horizons. That means the darkening of the sky also affects some other elements of the image that do not need darkening. Applying the effect in PP allows you to get around that problem.

[freddieg]

Freddie, in fact, digital sensors are capable of recording a very wide range of light zones if you're willing to use post processing to bring them out. Of course, this assumes you use proper exposure technique when making the image.

I'll concede a grad can be a better tool in those situations where the range of zones is extreme, but those are also uncommon. Most people are using grads for a 1 or 2 stop variance, something easily compensated for in PP.

I prefer to avoid the grads because I find many scenes have very irregular horizons. That means the darkening of the sky also affects some other elements of the image that do not need darkening. Applying the effect in PP allows you to get around that problem.

I understand your point scaper, and I think you're right in stating that a 1 or 2 stop variance could easily be compensated for in PP with a well exposed RAW image, but I was indeed thinking more in terms of those 3,4, and even 5 stop variances, where you will just blow out highlights or have very muddy backrounds, such as beach scenes. I live near the water and really enjoy nice beach shots, as well as when I travel. And I think the soft edge ND grads work a lot better in those instances where you have an irregular horizon, especially if your grad is large enough that you can turn and manipulate it to control the scene just the way you want it to.